Frequently Asked Questions for the Eclipse, Imagine and Evolve Overlockers & the BL101 Blind Hemmer

Q. When using the cover stitches on my new Evolve, can I sew as fast as when I am doing overlock stitches?

A. When using cover stitches it is best to sew at a moderate, even speed. That will give you a more consistent stitch quality because your fabric will be fed more evenly. This is especially true when using the combination stitches. Always place the fabric under the foot, as you would do if you were using a sewing machine. Turn the hand-wheel one revolution backwards when complete, as this will release the chain allowing you to place another piece of fabric under the foot before you begin sewing.

Q. I want to use Rayon or similar thread in the chain looper of the Evolve. What should I do to get the best results?

A. Use the thread by either placing it on the thread stand with the sponge disks at the bottom to prevent thread pooling or if it already has a large base, place it directly on your table to prevent the threads from becoming entangled. A thread net may be useful to stop the threads spilling of the spool.

Set your stitch length at 4 for best results.

Sew at a slow to moderate consistent speed.

Q. I have used monofilament in the needles of the Imagine and Eclipse. Can I also use monofilament in the chain needles of the Evolve?

A. Yes, you can. Make sure it is a soft pliable monofilament thread that will eventually break under strain. (If not, this thread can damage your machine if the thread is caught). Sew at a slow to moderate consistent speed. Use a thread net on the spool of thread and sponge disks at the bottom to prevent thread pooling.

Q. I want to make some quick polar fleece pull-over shirts. What type of thread and stitch works best?

A. Wooly nylon is the best thread to use because of its stretchable quality. A four thread overlock is best for most of your construction. In areas that will have a lot stress such as the arm holes you may want to use a 4 overlock with a chain stitch.

Q. Can I hem polar fleece with a narrow cover stitch, and can I stitch it so the looper thread shows on top?

A. Yes, the narrow cover stitch, with the looper thread showing on top in a nice accent to a garment.

Q. Sometimes my fleece catches under the foot, what can I do to prevent this?

A. We have a NEW fleece foot that will glide well over the fleece. Contact your local stockist for details.

Q. Can I use heavier thread in the needles of my Imagine or Eclipse overlocker?

A. Yes. Since these overlockers use regular HA1SP sewing machine needles, you can use a larger needle such as 90 to accommodate the heavier thread. It is essential that you use EL705 needles for the Evolve overlocker

Q. I have not used my overlocker for some while, what should I check to ensure perfect stitching?

A. Check the following to get the best results from your overlocker:

1. Change your needles. You should change your needles after every project or 10-12 hours of overlocking.

2. Check all threading guides or thread path to make sure the threads are in place and haven't slipped loose anywhere or twisted.

3. Check to make sure all your tensions are set correctly and that the threads are all seated in the tensions themselves. Make sure they are free from lint and excess thread.

4. Check to make sure you have the correct foot on your machine, or that the stitch finger is in the proper position for the stitch you are creating.

5. Choose an appropriate stitch length and width for the type of stitch you are creating as well as for the fabric you are working with. Check your manual for suggested settings.

6. Check that you are using the correct needles

7. DO NOT OIL your overlocker

Q. I use a lot of decorative thread in my loopers. What is the best thread to use in my needle to avoid constant needle thread changes?

A. Monofilament, it is a very fine, strong, yet transparent thread that will not interfere with the decorative quality of your looper threads. Ensure that the thread will beak under strain as it may damage the machine if it becomes taught.

Q. I have been looking at an older model Baby Lock overlocker and thinking of purchasing one second hand. Will parts and service be available for these older models?

A. The answer is yes. Baby Lock stands behind all its products with ongoing parts and service. Instruction manuals would also be available for most of the older models.

Q. Can I do 2-thread flatlock stitch with heavy decorative thread in the needle? I want to create a heavy ladder stitch.

A. Yes, use a size 90 top stitch needle to accommodate the heavy thread. You must serge slowly. This is not a fast technique.

Q. I have the Imagine overlocker and the left needle thread keeps breaking. What do I do to correct this?

A. Here are some tips to check your overlocker.

1.Make sure the thread flows smoothly by making sure the thread is not tangled on the thread stand or the antennae.
2.Make sure the thread is snug in the tension disk.
3.Make sure the stitch selector dial is on the correct setting for the stitch you are using.
4.Change the needle.

5. Change the thread. We recommend STARLIGHT thread, available form most Baby Lock specialist.

Q. How do I create my own wire edged ribbon?

A. Cut strips of fabric the length and width desired. Using a 3 thread rolled hem on your overlocker, stitch the wire to the fabric edge.

The type of wire to use is Bridal Wire that is wrapped with white fabric. This can be found in the bridal section of craft stores or fabric stores. The fabric covering the wire gives a better appearance of coverage with the overlocker stitching. Be careful to keep the wire away from the cuffing blade.

Stitch: 3 thread rolled hem
Foot: Beading foot

Q. I would like to do the "Blanket stitch" that is on ready to wear garments and blankets.
Can I do this with my Eclipse?

A. Yes, it can be done with the Eclipse as well as the Imagine overlocker. Here are the directions to set up your machine. Follow these instructions for achieving a perfect blanket stitch on your Baby Lock Eclipse Overlocker:

Needle thread: Wooly nylon, Monet, or your choice of decorative thread.
Needle tension: 0
Upper Looper thread: Maxi Lock thread
Upper Looper tension: 9
Lower Looper thread: Maxi Lock Thread
Lower Looper tension: 9
Stitch Length: 3-4
Stitch Width: 7.5
Differential Feed:

Three thread flatlock stitch
Needle thread: Wooly nylon, Monet or your choice of decorative thread.
Upper Looper: Maxi Lock thread
Lower Looper: Maxi Lock thread

Cut a narrow strip of Sulky water soluble stabilizer and place along edge of fabric and serge the stabilizer into the flatlock stitch. Pull the stabilizer to the edge of the fabric and tear away. This action pulls the stitching into the blanket stitch.

Q. Do I have to use overlocking thread on my Baby Lock overlocker?

A. You can use regular sewing machine thread. However, make sure you have enough thread to finish the project. Overlockers use more thread than a sewing machine. You may also need to adjust the tension settings. Sewing thread is heavier than overlocking thread and usually, less thread per spool.

Q. The thread loops off the edge of the fabric whilst Overlocking. How do I correct the problem?

A.

1. Check to see if your differential feed is on. If it is not supposed to be on set the differential at N.
2. Make sure the cutting blade is at the correct width setting.
3. Check upper and lower looper tension settings.
4. Make sure the machine is threaded properly and the threads are in the tension disks.

Q. I can't get my flatlock stitch to lay flat. What is the trick to get it to lay flat?

A. 1. Check the manual for tension settings. Check the needle tension and the lower looper tension.
2. When overlocking, have half of the loops on the fold of the fabric and half of the loops off the fold. When pulling fold open the stitching should lay flat on top of the fabric. Sometimes it is better to allow the knife to cut away at the edge of the fabric and ensure that you have maximum stitch width set.

Q. I have an Eclipse overlocker, and I cannot get the jet air threading to work on the lower looper. What do I do?

A. Be sure to check that the looper threader selector has been moved to the correct looper. NEVER remove threads from the loopers by pulling upwards through the threading eyelets, always pull from the looper eye. This applies to all ‘jet-air threading overlockers

Q. I am making lingerie on my Eclipse serger. When I make a seam, the stitch looks fine, but the looper threads hang off the edge of the fabric. I have adjusted the stitch length and width, with no luck, help! Any suggestions?

A. Move the differential feed lever to a higher number 1.3. The large feed dogs on overlockers may tend to push the fabric away from the stitch finger causing the loops to fall off the edge. Adjusting the Differential feed up will eliminate this problem.

Q. I recently purchased my first overlocker. How do I turn corners using this machine?

A. Outside Corners: Stitch to the end of the corner edge, but not beyond. Stop with the needles up and raise the presser foot. With tweezers pull approximately 1/4" of slack thread above the needles. The slack will allow the fabric to be pulled slightly to the back, clearing stitches from the stitch fingers. Turn the fabric, aligning the new edge with the edge of the needle plate. Remove any slack from the needle threads. Lower the foot and continue sewing.

Inside Corners: Cut an inside corner in a piece of fabric. Line up the edge of the fabric with the edge of the needle plate. Begin sewing. Stitch until the needles are about one inch away from the corner. Lower needles to secure the fabric and raise the presser foot. Manipulate the fabric until the cut edge pulls straight and a pleat forms to the left of the presser foot. Continue sewing until the inside corner is complete.

Q. Is there an easy way to make a spaghetti strap (turn a narrow strap inside out) on an overlocker?

A. To create a spaghetti strap on an overlocker, set it up to a narrow rolled hemstitch. Begin sewing a chain 5" to 10" longer than the length of the strap. Bring the chain around the left of the presser foot and to the front of the machine. Fold the fabric around the thread chain. Line up the fold with the left edge of the presser foot and sew. Be sure the thread chain stays within the fold. The cutting blades will trim away the excess fabric width. When the sewing is complete, pull the thread chain to turn the strap to the right side.

Q. Are there extra accessory feet available for the Eclipse?

A. Yes, there are feet available for the Eclipse. All the feet listed below are available through your local Baby Lock Dealer.

Beading Foot--Attach beads or sequins
Blind Hemming Foot--Hem knits in a snap! It easy with the adjustable guide on the foot
3mm Cording Foot--Great for small piping on children's clothing
5mm Cording Foot--Perfect for piping on adult clothing and crafts
Gathering Foot--Use to gather one layer while sewing it to another

Elastic Foot- - Aligns elastic and adds stretch to the finished edge.

Lace Foot - - Allows you to align lace or tape for decorative edges.

Q. I have just had both blades changed on my Eclipse at my local dealer. Now it is throwing the trimmings back up onto the seam, instead of them coming off the side like they should. I am also having problems getting it to cross seams. I have to help it get over them, any suggestions?

A. It sounds like your blades are out of alignment. Take the machine back to the person who changed the blades. Let them know what types of problems you've experienced since the blades were changed. Have them check the alignment of the blades. Before leaving the store with the machine, test it to make sure it is adjusted and sewing to your satisfaction.

For sewing over heavy fabrics, or when crossing seams, use the following suggestions and settings on the overlocker. The heavier the fabric the longer the stitch, when crossing seams make sure to use a slightly longer stitch length. Gently guide the fabric on the left-hand side of the presser foot. When sewing over extremely heavy seams, loosen the pressure on the presser foot and use a narrower stitch width 3.0 mm - 6.0 mm.

Q. I own a Baby Lock overlocker with Differential Feed. With this feature can I gather one layer while sewing it to another?

A. With the shirring/Gather foot you can! There is a separating device on the foot that separates the two layers of fabric. The bottom layer will be gathered while the top layer is being sewn to the bottom. Use the following instructions to use the foot. The shirring or Gather foot is available for Eclipse, Imagine and Evolve overlockers through your Baby Lock Retailer.

Attach the ruffling foot to the machine. Place the fabric to be gathered under the presser foot, right side up. Place the top piece between the guides in the front of the foot, right side down. Pull the fabric toward the needles and place the edge of fabric next to the inside edge of the guide. Slowly begin sewing, guiding the bottom piece of fabric with the left hand and the top fabric with the right hand. The bottom piece will be gathered and will feed faster than the top piece.

Q. I am having problems with my needles breaking occasionally. What should I check?

A. You can check the following things. Was the needle inserted properly? Is the needle bent or worn? Are the right and left needles threaded with the correct threads?, Is it the correct needle for the machine? Was the fabric pushed or pulled through machine? Is good quality thread being used? If the problem persists take the machine to an authorized Baby Lock Dealer for service.

Q. How often should I clean my overlocker?

A. Your machine should be cleaned after each project is completed. If you are working on a large project that creates a lot of lint build up, you may need to clean the machine a couple of times while working on the item. You can clean the overlocker yourself by using an air compressor, your vacuum cleaner, or your hair dryer set on cool. Problems that can occur if a machine is not cleaned on a regular basis are: inconsistent stitching, a noisy machine, and improper feeding. Avoid these problems by making sure to clean all thread guides and brush the lint off the knives and feed dog frequently using the brush that included in the accessory pack. A Bristle Artist Brush is an essential accessory.

Q. I am about to begin a polar fleece project on my overlocker. Can you give me any hints?

A. When sewing on polar fleece, you will need to adjust the stitch length 3-4. Set the stitch width at 7.5mm. Loosen the pressure on the foot according to the instruction book. Set the differential feed at the lowest setting 0.6 or 0.7. If overlocking a coat or top you will need to stabilize the shoulder seam. To do this, place tape into the tape sewing guide. Sew tape to shoulder seam to prevent stretching. Have fun constructing your project!

Q. I own an Eclipse overlocker with the jet air threading system. I would like information on decorative sewing and the use of decorative threads. Where can I find this information?

A. Start by visiting your Baby Lock Dealer. They can give you the best direction on how to master the jet air thread system. Also, if they offer classes on decorative overlocking, be sure to sign up!

Next you should obtain an Eclipse workbook. It has detailed instructions on decorative overlocking techniques as well as working with decorative threads. Don't forget to review the Baby Lock Eclipse video that comes with the machine to learn more about overlocking with specialty threads.

Q. I am shopping for a new overlocker. What is differential feed?

A. Overlockers that are equipped with differential feed have two feed dogs, one in the front and one in the back. When the differential feed is set at N the front feed dog will feed the fabric at the same rate as the back feed dog.

When the differential feed is set at 1.3 to 2 the front feed dog will feed more fabric than the back . This is because the front feed dog moves a greater distance than the back feed dog. For example, when the differential feed is set at 2, the front feed dog will move twice as far as the back feed dog. In this case, the front feed dog is feeding in twice as much fabric as the back feed dog is feeding out. The result is that the fabric will be gathered. Differential feed settings from 1.3 to 2 are used for gathering and easing as well as compensating for stretch distortion of knitted fabrics.

When the differential feed is set from 0.6 to 0.8 the front feed dog moves less than the back feed dog. For example, when the differential feed is set at 0.8 the front feed dog will feed 20% less than the back feed dog. This is useful for eliminating puckering on woven fabrics and stretching knit fabrics for a lettuce leaf effect.

Q. How do I use thicker threads in the loopers?

A. If you want to use thick threads in your Babylock, start with a thread
cradle. Take a long piece of regular thread, double it and poke both
cut ends into the threading port. Hold the loop end, then whoosh it
through.
With the cradle still in place, open the tubes. Hold the cradle at the
needles end, and hook it out from between the white cover and the
first chrome loops.
Take your thick thread down the thread path, then drop the end into
the loop of the thread cradle.
Pull the cradle through to the business end.
This method is listed in your manual under 'bypassing the threading
port'.
I have used up to a fine 4 ply knitting wool with this method.

Q. How can I achieve a blind hem on the Babylock overlocker?

A. Blind hem foot helps if you have one.
Right needle only. Move the needle thread one slot over to the upper
looper channel, then turn left and under those silver hooks, over the
plastic whotsit and down into the needle. This gives the needle much
more thread, enabling it to lay flat when finished.
SS B; SL 4; SW 3.5; Knife working; DF up one or two clicks if the
fabric starts to stretch when stitched. Fold hem up then back on
itself as you would do for a blind hem on the sewing machine.
Line it up so the fold is fractionally to the right of the needle.
I would suggest you try this on the scrap fabric first to get the DF
setting correct.

Q. I want to replicate the three thread wrapped edge which I used on
my old overlocker. Can this be done on a Babylock?

A. Thread the two needles and lower looper. Engage the subsidiary
looper. SW 6ish SL 2.5ish(depending on the thickness of your looper
thread). If the thread is too tight over the edge, place a piece of
masking tape over the threading channel to remove all tension.

Q. Which is better, the Evolve or buying separate Cover Stitch and Babylock overlock machines?.

A. The CS machine is different to the Evolve in that it has individual
tensions for the needle threads. It has jet air threading, and is a
very simple machine with the benefit of taking all the industrial
attachments. My cramped workshop makes the Evolve a better buy for me,
But with lots of space I would probably go for two separate machines.
The only disadvantage is that you can't do a safety seam (chain st
plus overlock) in one swipe; not a major problem!

 

Blindhemmer Questions

Q. What does the fabric depth adjustment do?

A. The depth relates to the height of the cloth lifter to the needle.

0 = farthest away (thinner fabric)
6 = closest (thicker fabric)

You are actually raising the cloth lifter. If the fabric is so thin that the needle hits or skims the cloth lifter or needle guide plate or doesn't catch the bottom fabric, then a piece of tear-away stabilizer or tissue paper should be placed below the fabric. This will raise it for a good bite of the fabric and cause no damage to the machine. When hemming thin fabrics, sew on top of the hem and not on the folded edge.

Q. I have a problem hemming over heavy seams. The machine jams every time.

A. When hemming heavy fabrics stop when you come to the seam and "walk" the seam through by turning the hand wheel by hand. Make sure to use the correct size needle. Do not use larger than size (75)

Q. I am trying to hem sheer curtains and the fabric is puckering. Can I blind hem sheer curtains?

A.

1. Try loosening the tension at least one full revolution of the tension knob
2. Fold the hem twice for more support.
3. Try using a smaller needle. Suggestion: size 9 (remove this line)
4. Use a finer thread such as cotton embroidery thread for an almost invisible hem.

Q. What is the best needle to use in my Baby Lock Blind Hemmer?

A. HAX1SP is the best needle system for this machine. The only difference from household needles and the HAX1SP, is they are nickel-plated and they will last longer. The manufacturer suggests a needle size 75. Because the needle does not penetrate the fabric from top to bottom it is not necessary to use a large needle in the machine.

Q. What suggestions can you give me for hemming a lightweight fabric on the Baby Lock Blind Hemmer?

A. Engage the skip mechanism on the right hand side of the machine. When engaged it will not catch every other stitch. It is perfect for hemming lightweight fabrics. For best results, fine tune the stitch depth, and stitch length settings to the weight of the fabric. If the fabric puckers, loosen the tension. On lightweight cottons fold hem up twice. With the skipped mechanism engaged you could achieve a hand picked look that is commonly used in heirloom sewing. Remember to disengage the skip mechanism on regular fabrics. Sew on top of the hem rather than on the folded edge

Q. I love my Baby Lock Blind Hemming machine! However recently it started skipping stitches. Any suggestions?

A. If you have not changed the needle recently, that is the first thing to do. HAX1SP is the best needle system for this machine. The only difference from household needles and the HAX1SP, is they are nickel-plated and they will last longer. The manufacturer suggests a needle size 75. Because the needle does not penetrate the fabric from top to bottom it is not necessary to use a large needle in the machine.

Q. How often should my Blind Hemming Machine be serviced?

A. As with all mechanical and electrical machines, your Baby Lock Blind Hemming Machine should be serviced at least once a year by a qualified engineer. Either return it to the shop where it was purchased or contact your local dealer. (Add link to dealers)

Q. Can I use invisible thread?

A. Please be very careful using invisible/nylon thread. We advise that you find one that is fine and will beak under strain or if the thread gets tight, it can damage your machine.

Q. I do not seem to be able to start hemming at the beginning of the hem. Can you explain why?

A. The feed dogs (the part of the machine that grips the fabric and feeds it through the machine) are situated at the rear so the fabric must be placed at least 4cms towards the back of the foot. This is never a problem because if you are making curtains you will need at least this depth to make your mitred corner. If you are hemming something tubular such as trousers, just finish where you started. Don’t forget to lock the stitch.